Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Xel-Ha Lagoon National Park

The beauty and affordability of this paradise swimming escape on the eastern coastline of the Yucatán Peninsula can cover the multitude of sins that you will endure to reach it. Only a bumpy drive from the delights of Cancun, or a cheap cruise line's jaunt from Florida or Texas, Quintana Roo, Mexico is easy on the pocketbook, but hard on the body and soul. Let me just say that if giving money to depressed economies that desperately need the tourist dollar takes the fun out of your trip, skip this swim spot. Either way, seriously, do not drink the water.

Arrive early and bring lots of bottled water, a sun hat and your own snorkel equipment (rent it in Cancun, cheaply). Wear a cover while snorkeling instead of lathering up, as years of sun block and lotion have taken a toll on the fishes in these waters. Stake out a comfy cabana, or hammock and enjoy refreshments at your leisure, but the real action is early and in the water, of course. Touch not the coral, a cut on the leg of one of our party quickly turned ugly, and made for a rough vacation end.

Add ons at Xel-Ha include a dolphin experience, snuba, or for something a bit more unique, try the Sea Trek. A half hour walking tour along the sea bed, assisted by a Sea Trek helmet (with an airline extending upwards. You need no prior diving certification or experience, yet those who suffer claustrophobia or are under the age of 12 (limit is 8 years and 80lbs in body weight) might just stick to the snorkeling, which is awesome. The walk takes you through Sting Ray city, which is a big part of the Xel-Ha draw, and allows for calm unparalleled in a snorkel tour, so might be worth your money.

Kayaks and snorkel tours are also available at a cost. Facilities are minimal but sufficient. If you are adding this to a Tulum visit, you may wish to go ahead and visit Tulum wet, as your morning (less crowd time) is better spent at Xel-Ha (or nearby, but not as worthy Xcaret).

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