From the rich tea color of the Thames in the Cotswolds to the slick glassy black surface of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, for those who can brave the cold, England offers swimming unparalleled. But, to my surprise, far to the north, I found an amazing spot for relaxing and enjoyed otherworldly swimming in the Meres of the Lake District. Heading north from London to the land of Beatrix Potter and Wordsworth, the Lake District, British Rail offers superb accommodations in first class, but if you go discount (second class) expect bus like conditions and over crowding of backpacking European students. Once in the Lake District, many swimming spots are accessible only by light hikes. Bring the gear you need in backpack fashion, and watch out for, as the locals say "Cow pats".
Lake Windermere is the crown jewel of the lakes north of London and South of Glasgow, and the largest lake in England. You have a choice of boating out or hiking out to the more remote spots on this mere, or you can utilize one of the many public beaches, one of the best is at Millerground. The beaches are easy to reach with a rental car, but predictably full at holiday time. You miss a great deal of the bone deep relaxation of the Mere by using the public beach, but you also avoid any legal problems and the high cost of a boat rental.
Local swimming trek offices will guide you through this, or any number of swimming excursions, including the aforementioned Thames Cotswold to the North Sea journey, a must-do swim if you are a swimming Anglophile.
Hazards: the biggest hazard in swimming the Lake District is the temperature. The thermocline barrier, which is the barrier between the sun warmed water at the top 12 inches of the lakes, and the extremely cold water beneath. Diving into natural water before exploring for depth and rocks is stupid at best, but so is overestimating your ability to swim in very cold water. Channel swimmers slather synthetic fat on their bodies and undergo intensive training to withstand cold. Each year in the UK swimmers perish due to cold water reactions including heart attack. So, be cautious and know your limits!
Ghosts and other Legends:
Legend tells of a Crier of Claife, a ghost bound until "men can walk dryshod across the Mere", and a White horse of the Mere, that gallops across the lake to warn locals when danger is coming. There are also reports of "Tizzie Wizzies" which are described as "shy, water-loving creatures with the body of a hedgehog, the tail of a squirrel and a pair of bee-like wings."
Locals will gladly recant the stories of each of the Meres, if you are kind enough to ask. Just be ready to get a healthy dose of Northern politics (conservative, generally) and be polite about pro or anti-Bush notions. Each Mere has its own unique history and bloody murders seem part and parcel of any old house or body of water in the UK, but you might keep an eye out for the Tizzie Wizzies anyway.
Buttermere
Less well known, and boat free, the lovely Buttermere is accessible by car and light hike to water's edge. Added bonus of being close to the idyllic St. James Church, which is well worth a visit. I stayed in a great little hotel over a pub, within easy walking distance of the Mere. The added bonus with this more remote area of the District is that you only share pub with fellow hikers, and while they do party hard, everyone is in bed by 10pm and willing to lend a hand on the lanes.
Also, you get to meet some great sheep on your way to the Mere!
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