Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs

West of Santa Fe, and once considered sacred by the Tewa tribes, lies a Pueblo overlooking these springs. Called "Ojo Caliente", or "Hot Eye", the springs were considered to be life giving, food bringing, and continue to be used as restoratives. One of the oldest resorts in the U.S., Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs is the only natural hot springs in the world with the remarkable combination of four geothermal mineral waters.

Leaving behind Santa Fe, which is not such a noisy place itself, climbing up winding paths into the hills dotted with tiny homesteads and rare adobes, you ascend into the clouds and feel the stress of the city begin to fade. It is the quiet that you first notice when you arrive. Thick, almost palpable in the dry mountain air, you realize that the only noises in this place are the ones which you bring with you.

There are ten pools, of varying size and temperature, four primary element Springs, or "Waters" you can indulge in, (lithium, iron, soda and arsenic) in addition to a plethora of spa treatments. Each pool, except the large pool is a "whisper zone" and kids are not really encouraged (I would never take a child into the Arsenic pool anyway). The springs are mixed to varying degrees, but convenient signs posted by the entrance to each pool identify exactly what you are stepping into (mix of iron and arsenic, etc.).

There are three private outdoor pools that can be reserved for au natural swimming, each with its own little fireplace. This is for the hardy and fearless, since the place feels a bit ramshackle and hippie anyway, but if you are up for it, it is an unparalleled experience (so I heard).

May through October (warmer months) find the mud pool open for those over 13 years, and offer a chance to wallow and detox and play like a kid. We were not here during the summer (but during ski season) so unfortunately missed this fun.

The Four Springs
The first main Spring is the Lithia Spring. This is one of the most ancient of the Springs, operating since the early nineteenth century. The waters contain amounts of Lithium, which is used to treat depression and which the spa touts will aid digestion.

The Iron Spring has a mix of tepid water with unexpected warm spots. The iron in the water they told me is good for boosting your immune system, and for women generally, who can be more iron deficient than men.

I enjoyed the Soda Spring quite a bit, as it was hotter and very relaxing to each of the senses. The appearance is calming, surrounded by rock walls. Allegedly, soda helps aid digestion as well. I am a bit skeptical...

Finally, the main reason I was drawn to Ojo Caliente, the Arsenic Spring. Arsenic is POISON. Yes, but in very small does, arsenic is good for the skin, relieves arthritis and (again with this!) aids in digestive/stomach problems.

The Spa
We did book spa appointments including facials and massage, (deep tissue and shiatsu). There are a number of male masseuses, so be sure to specify if you have a gender preference in advance. I found that my masseuse (male, from Austin, kind of a hippie) was very well trained and professional. The facilities are nice, but more like a nicely run public swimming pool than an upscale resort spa. The spa and treatment rooms were serviceable and relaxing.

A gift shop is on site, with various yoga/hippie accoutrement.

Again, the cottages and "hotel" on location were a bit ramshackle compared with upscale ski resorts, which are within comfortable driving distance, but a few new cliff side dwellings are quite nice, and there are plans to add private soaking pools to a few of these. Also, the peace and quiet here are unparalleled, and if you don't mind the country atmosphere, you will not encounter anything to break the spell of tranquility.

Bring a book, as relaxing by the big pool (it can get windy, beware) wrapped in a fluffy robe is lots of fun. Also bring LOTS of sunscreen, bottled water and moisturizer, as the desert air is not friendly and the sun unforgiving. But, leave behind (in the car) your mobile phone and IPOD, or you cheat yourself of half the experience.